Thursday, November 22, 2007

Secret Spots by Wayne Ernzer

A letter to my to son while on his 9 month surfing journey around the world.

"Secret Spots"
Secret spots are places
only locals seem to know.
The tourists seem to drive on by
as though blinded by snow.
Perhaps the angle from the road
or hedges block the view.
Locals just won't turn
that surfing spot into a zoo.
From time to time
the waves turn
into glassy things of dreams—
that carry you through
till the next swell—
and it's bigger, so it seems.
If you are a traveler
and looking for that place
Just hook up with some locals
and try to walk their pace.
If timing's right and things go good.
The locals might show you around
To waves that only locals know.
The waves that will astound.
So make a pact to never tell
the world about that spot.
The place you will remember
But say that you forgot.
So if you get my meaning
and It's just as well you do.
By that I mean, don't turn
that surfing spot Into a zoo.

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